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| Perched
on a high hill north of the city centre, Montmartre remains a contained and only
sightly sullied throwback to a bygone era, with winding streets, ivy-clad houses
with gardens, and artists'studios remaining just as you imagine they always were.
Sacré Coeur is endlessly besieged by coach tours,
as is the Place du Tertre, peopled by so-called artists. But as soon as you get
off the main drag, the area is surprisingly villagey. The tiny 12th-century church
of St-Pierre de Montartre ranks among the oldest of the city, while the quiet
streets, cafés and squares have a character quite unlike the rest of Paris.
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